I have never been to Death Valley (except for a very brief visit to Eureka Dunes), so a visit has been high on my to-do list. Karen, however, has not been enthusiastic and whenever I brought the subject up she usually talked about alternatives like Mammoth, Bend, Grand Tetons, Smokey Mountains, or White Mountains (the New Hampshire ones). It’s hard to argue, because I love those places too, but I just insisted we go right after Christmas and sort of guaranteed her a good time.
Death Valley landscape from Zabriskie Point
We arrived in Bishop in the late afternoon and I thought dinner at Amigos would be better than anything in Lone Pine. To kill a little time we browsed Galen Rowell’s Mountain Light Gallery. Beautiful photography—I’m not patient enough to learn the techniques to capture photos like that. Dinner was great but we discovered that the signature dish we really like is only served as a special on Saturday.
Wednesday morning we headed from Lone Pine to Furnace Creek and Golden Canyon. The trail-head was already busy and the parking lot was full, but we just parked across the road. While there were a lot of people close to the trail-head, after a couple of miles they thinned out. We hiked all the way through Golden Canyon and up to Zabriskie Point (lots of people again). After getting a few photos, we headed down Gower Gulch to return to our car. There were few people on this part of the trail.
Twenty-mule-team wagons at Harmony Borax Works
On Thursday, we returned and first hiked to Darwin Falls. The trail starts up a dry wash but soon runs along a trickling stream in a brush-filled canyon. Amazingly, there is a small waterfall that apparently runs year round. We met a returning hiker who told us there was an upper falls, but it looked like more rock-scrambling than we wanted to attempt.
Our next stop was Mosaic Canyon which had some interesting geology. Lots of jumbly rocks with a layer of marble in between. After a mile and a half or so the trail hits a dry-fall and we chose to go no further.
We stopped at Stove Pipe Wells to look around and upon returning to our car noticed Toyotie (my friend David’s Toyota 4×4) nearby, so I looked for him in the café and chatted a bit. Then we drove out to the west side of Titus Canyon but decided we didn’t want to hike in on the road (one-way traffic east-to-west). So, we started back, but detoured a little ways up Wildrose Canyon and stopped for some photos at some old ruins—the Journigan Mill. (Check out this paper by Russ Journigan describing mining, milling, and being shut down by the feds. Fascinating story.) While we were there David and his family drove up as well. I wonder what the odds are of unanticipated encounters in Death Valley.
We had further adventures on this trip, but not in Death Valley so I’ll describe them in another post. I think Karen enjoyed the trip. Avoiding long drives on bumpy dirt roads and finding interesting places to hike were key to this.
