Hiking Fairyland Loop in Bryce National Park

Fairyland Loop


While we have been to Bryce before, we have never been terribly impressed with it. Yes, it does have beautiful shapes and colors, but we were never drawn to spend much time there. In fact, two years ago in the spring when we visited there were still patches of snow (which added an extra beauty), but it was so cold and windy we just dashed from the car to the rim to take a few photos and then back to the car.

This year we looked for a longish hike down in the canyon, and chose the eight-mile Fairyland loop. Wow! It was really cool. We’ll do it again if we’re still able whenever we return. The perspective is completely different when down in the canyon looking up at the colorful hoodoos.

A weather front was moving in and we could see thunderheads to the north and heard an occasional rumble of thunder. Luckily, we made it back to the truck before the first sprinkles started.

Link
Bryce Canyon Fairyland Loop 2012 photo gallery

Biking Zion and Red Canyons

Today we drove from Zion to Bryce, but first we did a couple of bike rides. Starting from the visitor center, we rode Zion Canyon to the end of the road and back. This is not a very long ride, but it’s so impressive to look up at the sheer walls of the canyon. There is very little traffic, although there is a rule that bikes pull off the road and stop whenever a shuttle bus comes from behind.

Red Canyon. Oops—there’s a finger over the lens

Red Canyon. Oops—there’s a finger over the lens

At Big Bend we stopped because a ranger had a spotting scope set up. Turns out there was a California Condor nesting site below the rim of Scout Lookout where we had lunch yesterday. No condors appeared, but sometimes they perch on the rim real close to people. The ranger was a Livermore kid—saw my Livermore Cyclery jersey and mentioned he spent plenty of time in the store. He did a good job explaining all the condor facts too.

After leaving Zion through the east entrance, we stopped for a short bike ride on a very nice bike trail at Red Canyon, just before getting to Bryce. It was warm and uphill and we weren’t very energetic.


Red Canyon formations

Red Canyon formations

We stayed the night at Bryce Pines—ate in their restaurant too.

Hiking the west rim trail in Zion National Park

Zion is our favorite Utah national park. It is spectacularly magnificent. We have hiked most of the trails in the canyon except the Angel’s Landing Trail because I don’t handle exposure well and Angel’s Landing has that in spades. (See this video for some idea of the challenging part of the trail.) However, the trail also leads up to the west rim, bypassing the spur route to Angel’s Landing.

Angel’s Landing


We tried to get an early start, but with the drive from the motel to the park visitor center, and then the shuttle ride to the trail head at The Grotto it was nearly mid-morning. (By the way, we stay at a motel in Hurricane rather than Springdale—it’s about half the cost.)

Switchbacks up to Refrigerator Canyon

The trail begins following the Virgin River, gently climbing toward the cliff. Then it begins switchbacking up to Refrigerator Canyon. Thankfully, this wall was still in the shade—later in the day it becomes sun-baked. After a too short walk through shady and cool Refrigerator Canyon we ascended Walter’s Wiggles—500 ft up through 21 short switchbacks. This brought us to Scout Lookout where we had lunch in the shade of pine tree near the cliff edge and watched the “crazy” people tackle the Angel’s Landing trail (the less scary part, we couldn’t see the narrow part with 1500 ft cliffs on both sides).

After lunch we headed up the West Rim Trail, only going about another half-mile—it was getting very warm. To get to the rim we probably had to climb another 1000 ft. After a fairly easy return to the trailhead we took the shuttle to the end of the road and hiked the easy 2 mile round-trip trail to the beginning of the narrows. This year the water was low enough that folks were hiking it—on previous spring trips snow melt has made the river a roaring torrent.

We closed the days activities with an early dinner on the patio at Oscar’s in Springdale—recommended.

Links
Zion 2012 photo gallery